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The relais: from horse-changing post to country inn with a table worth the journey

Long before trains, cars and motorways, travelling any real distance meant horses, and horses get tired. Along the main roads of Europe, a network of stations grew up where tired animals were swapped for fresh ones, mail was passed on, and travellers could eat, warm up and sleep before the next stage. In France such a place was called a relais, from the old French word for a relay. The fresh horses waiting there were the relay that kept the journey moving.

The horses are long gone, but the word has survived. In France and Italy today, a relais usually means a characterful inn or small historic hotel in the countryside, often in an old building, and very often with a serious kitchen and a good wine list. This guide looks at where the idea came from, how travellers rested along old roads in other parts of the world, and what to expect when you book a relais stay today.

Post houses and the rhythm of the road

From the late Middle Ages onwards, rulers in Europe organised postal routes to carry official messages quickly. Post houses were set up at regular intervals, roughly as far as a team of horses could go at speed. The postmaster kept stables, hired riders and coachmen, and often ran an inn for passengers. In France these were the relais de poste; in Italy the stazioni di posta. Many stood at the edge of a village or at a crossroads, built around a courtyard large enough for coaches to turn, with stables on one side and rooms above.

When railways arrived in the nineteenth century, the old coaching network quickly lost its purpose. Some post houses became farms or private homes, others fell into ruin, and a number carried on as village inns. It is these buildings, with their thick walls, courtyards, beams and vaulted stables, that many modern relais have brought back to life.

Resting places along old roads around the world

The need to rest between stages is universal, and almost every culture with long roads developed its own version of the relais.

• Coaching inns in the UK and Ireland. In the stagecoach era, inns along the main routes out of London, Dublin and Edinburgh served passengers and changed horses. Look for a wide archway leading into a yard: that is where the coaches drove in. Many are still pubs or small hotels today.
• Historic inns and taverns in the US and Canada. Early roads such as the old post roads of New England and routes through the colonies and later the frontier were lined with taverns where travellers slept, ate and caught the next stage. Some of these timber and stone buildings still welcome overnight guests.
• Post towns on Japan's old highways. During the Edo period, travellers on routes such as the Nakasendo, which ran through the mountains between Edo and Kyoto, stopped at post towns with inns for every budget. In the Kiso Valley, Tsumago and Magome have kept their wooden streets, and a walking trail links the two. Staying in a small ryokan or family-run inn there, with a set dinner and a futon on tatami, is as close as you can get to the old travellers' experience.
• Caravanserais along the Silk Road. In Iran, Central Asia and Turkey, caravanserais were fortified courtyard inns spaced along the trade routes, where merchants, camels and goods rested safely for the night. In Turkey they are known as hans. Some have been restored as guesthouses or hotels, and sleeping in a room off an ancient courtyard is unforgettable.
• Posadas in Latin America. In Spain's former colonies, from Mexico to the Andes, posadas gave shelter to travellers on the royal roads and mule trails. Today the word is widely used for small inns, many of them in colonial buildings arranged around a patio.

The modern relais: what you can expect

Today a relais is less about getting somewhere and more about arriving. The typical relais has a limited number of rooms, a peaceful rural setting, and an owner or small team who know every corner of the house. It is not a chain hotel, and it rarely tries to be one.

Food comes first. In many relais, the restaurant is the heart of the place. Menus are often built around what is in season nearby: vegetables from the garden, cheese from the next village, game in autumn, truffles or mushrooms in the right months. Dinner may be a set menu or a tasting menu, and in the most ambitious houses it is the main reason guests come. Book your table when you book your room, as the dining room may be small and outside guests may also reserve.

Wine is part of the story. Many relais sit in or near wine regions, from Burgundy and the Loire to Piedmont and Tuscany, and the cellar often features local producers you would not find at home. Ask for advice; the staff usually enjoy recommending something from down the road.

Gardens and setting. Courtyards shaded by old trees, vegetable gardens, orchards, a pool among the fields or a terrace facing vineyards are all typical. A relais is a place to slow down, so leave time to do nothing.

Rooms with character. Because they occupy old buildings, rooms vary in size and shape. Former stables or haylofts can make wonderful rooms with high beams, while smaller rooms under the roof may have sloping ceilings. Read the descriptions and look at the photos carefully.

Tips for a relais stay

• Many relais are in the countryside with little public transport, so plan on a car, a bike or a taxi from the nearest station.
• Some close for part of the year or have a weekly closing day for the restaurant. Check before you travel.
• Half board, with dinner included, can be good value and saves a drive after a long meal.
• Arrive early enough to enjoy the garden and an aperitif before dinner.
• Use the relais as a base and explore nearby villages, markets and wineries during the day.

Questions to ask before you book

• Is the restaurant open every evening during our stay, and should we reserve a table?
• Is there a set menu, and can the kitchen handle allergies or dietary needs?
• Is half board available, and is it recommended?
• How are the rooms different from each other, and which has the best view or the most space?
• Is the building accessible, and are there stairs to the rooms?
• Is there air conditioning or heating in the rooms?
• Can the owners arrange wine tastings, cooking classes or visits to local producers?
• Are children and pets welcome?
• How far is the nearest station or airport, and can a transfer be arranged?

Choose your relais

The relais and historic inns on this page are grouped by continent, country and region, so you can find one on the route you are planning or in the countryside you want to explore. Every link goes to the owner's own website, where you can look at the rooms, check availability and book directly. Do you run a relais, a historic inn or a former post house? Add your link for free with the button above and welcome the next generation of travellers on the road.